Tag Archives: Masai Mara

Fabulous Trip to Africa, 22 Sep to 4 Oct 2015, Post 11 – Masai Mara to Nairobi

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Back to Nairobi by airplane today. But we had time for one last short safari in the morning to try once again to find the male lions. We were out at 6:30 am, and bouncing along the back trail from our camp. Sammy, the driver, worked with Philip. 20151003-DSC_4952The first good thing: the sunrise, and the six balloons aloft to catch the morning light. Beautiful!

After that, we saw some birds (storks, vultures, ground birds), but no lions. Then, off in the distance, Philip spied what we were looking for. We were across the river from the two male lions, so Sammy accelerated, and we were headed swiftly toward the fording point. We made it across, and headed back to where we had seen the two lions.

20151003-DSC_4968 20151003-DSC_4963The two were coming to greet each other. They are according to Philip, brothers, and so didn’t fight each other. Instead they keep mostly to their own side of the territorial markers.

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We got some great shots of both the males, and it was really exciting to hear them roar their greetings to each other.  At one point they were roaring at a female lion up on the far ridge from us probably 500 yards away.  20151003-DSC_5034 20151003-DSC_5049The female roared back, but kept on walking away.  Philip believed she had mated already this cycle, and was not interested in more of the same.

We stayed near them for awhile, but then decided to see if we could catch another cheetah that had been sighted in the same area yesterday.

20151003-DSC_5126We never found the cheetah, but found two more male lions, this time on the other bank of the river. We watched them as long as we could (they were walking parallel to the river). After awhile, the one in front stopped, and the other caught up. These two are also brothers, all four Philip tells us are from the same father. When the second brother caught the first in this second pair, they started playing just like youngsters, rolling over and nuzzling each other. 20151003-DSC_5206We soon left them, and what do you know, we found yet another male lion. He was hidden in some bushes, so we didn’t stay with him long. Oh, what fun to find so many lions — it made for a great end to the safaris.

Stork, Marabou

Stork, Marabou

Stork, Marabou

Stork, Marabou

Stork, Yellow-billed

Stork, Yellow-billed

Sand Grouse, Yellow-throated

Sand Grouse, Yellow-throated

Guinea Fowl, Helmeted

Guinea Fowl, Helmeted

Stork, Marabou

Stork, Marabou

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Plover, African Wattled (Lapwing)

Plover, African Wattled (Lapwing)

Along the way, we saw more birds and other animals just as we’d seen on almost all our expeditions.  So, after returning to the camp, we ate breakfast, finished packing, checked out and headed for the airport.

The plane, this time a twin-engine plane was almost full, but it flew at 15,000 feet (as opposed to the 8500 feet that the single engine plane that got us to the camp flew at), and while I’d like to say it was smoother, I really can’t. Thank goodness we were all seasoned travelers, as it was a rough ride. One woman behind Bruce and Dee gave up her breakfast before we landed.20151003-DSC_5260 20151003-DSC_5293

Nairobi’s Wilson Airport (not the large international one) where we landed put us all through a security check before they let us out of the area, including a belt for our bags and a walk-through scan, but I was less than impressed with their practices. The buzzer went off when I went through, but no one noticed, so I just kept on walking.

Charles, our driver from the last time we were here met us outside the terminal, and off we went to lunch. Lunch was at the “Carnivore” restaurant, a very up-market place. Their way of working is to bring soup and then to put hot plates in front of you. They then come around with skewers of hot meats of many varieties for you to sample. You keep getting offered more meat until you take the little flag down from the center of your table. The food was not particularly tasty, but the variety made up for it.

Then, it was to the Eka Hotel where we had stayed the first night we were in Nairobi at the start of our adventure. Unfortunately, we didn’t make it easily. We got within a mile or so, and the van broke down in the middle of a very busy dirt road. 20151003-DSC_5310Trucks (large ones, with 40 foot containers on their beds were many, as were trucks that I connected with the construction activities along the road. It took about an hour for someone to come rescue us, and now we are happily put up in our rooms.

Tomorrow, the elephant and giraffe hospital, and eventually the flight home!!!

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Fabulous Trip to Africa, 22 Sep to 4 Oct 2015, Post 9 – Masai Mara

Up early again, we were on the road a little after 6:30. In addition to the normal animals, we saw five hot-air balloons rising near the camp. Gretchen got a good picture of a couple of them as they took off. She saw them from the bar area of the camp, as one of the balloon concessions is run out of our camp.

Guinea Fowl, Helmeted

Guinea Fowl, Helmeted

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Jackal with Crowned Plover (Lapwing) in the distance

Jackal with Crowned Plover (Lapwing) in the distance

It took awhile to get started, but we saw the cheetah mother and her cubs playing with each other near a different tree from yesterday.

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We saw a group of hippos in a rather disgusting pond which had only still water, so their waste just stayed put.

Eagle, Tawny

Eagle, Tawny

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Vulture, Lappet-faced; Vulture, White-backed

Vulture, Lappet-faced; Vulture, White-backed

Vulture, Lappet-faced; Vulture, White-backed

Vulture, Lappet-faced; Vulture, White-backed

Vulture, Lappet-faced; Vulture, White-backed

Vulture, Lappet-faced; Vulture, White-backed

Vulture, Lappet-faced

Vulture, Lappet-faced

It was a small pond, with a number of hippos. One stayed off by him/herself, and she put on a good show. Among other things we saw a group of vultures surrounding a kill that had already been abandoned by the killer (a lion, it was guessed based on the footprints in the area). We also caught up with a number of warthogs and their youngsters. Apparently the warthogs at the height of their reproductive capability will have four babies, having graduated from one upward, and then as she declines, she will have less number of babies. The ones we saw typically had three babies, but at least one had four.

Warthogs - tails up!

Warthogs – tails up!

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Hightailing it!

Hightailing it!

The wildebeests were common all around, and we even had our breakfast in their midst (well, they were aways away really).

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Picnicing in the midst of the wildebeest

Picnicing in the midst of the wildebeest

Sammy and I practicing to be Maasai

Sammy and I practicing to be Maasai

Another group lunching amongst the wildebeest

Another group lunching amongst the wildebeest

We went to a common crossing point in the Salama River (?) where there were a number of hippos, a number of crocodiles, and a number of vultures.

Vulture, White-backed; Goose, Egyptian

Vulture, White-backed; Goose, Egyptian

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There were also several wildebeest bodies hung up on the rocks in the river. We were told that the river had been much higher and faster last week, and the wildebeests had had a hard time getting across quickly. They stumbled over each other and in the process a few drowned, were captured by predators, or just weren’t strong enough to make it to the other side. It made for a gruesome scene, yet somehow from a distance, natural. We went to another area where it looked for awhile like a herd of wildebeest was going to cross, but they stopped, and we grew tired of waiting, so headed back for lunch.

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Young warthogs

Young warthogs

Topi

Topi

Stork, Yellow-billed

Stork, Yellow-billed

This afternoon, we’re going to a school to give them the school supplies we brought for them. The school is nearby, and one of the Masai warriors who work at the camp (Nixon is his name) has siblings who go there. It is the Loingo (?) Primary School, meaning it has children from nursery school through level 8. It is a residential school, so the students live there during the terms (three months in school and a fourth month at home). Unfortunately, there is a teachers’ strike right now. We are told the reason is that an official in the central government gave the teachers a 50% rise in pay, and it has since been determined that this is not really a good thing to do, so they have tried to rescind it, but the teachers now are striking to have it reinstated. The net result is that schools are not really in session. The only class running at this school is the level 8 class as the students have their state-run graduation test in November.

There are 19 in that class, 15 boys and 4 girls, at least there were on the day we were there. After a brief introduction by the principal, and a welcome song by the students, we were allowed to talk to them individually or in groups. I ended up talking to six boys who were quite interested in interviewing me (as I was them). They asked all sorts of questions about me, my occupation, what it meant, where I lived, what the USA is like (what is our economy based on — yes, that was one of the questions!), what our weather is like, what religions we have, what our political parties are, and a whole variety of other things. They knew President Obama, and wanted to know more about him.

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I asked them about their economy (farming and herding based), their religion (mostly Christian, although they also knew of Muslims), their schooling (they do have high school, if the child and his/her parents choose to take advantage of it), what their ambitions are (pass the test, and then be herders), and so on. They were very attentive, and interested in the answers to their questions, as well as interested that I understand their answers to my questions.

Bruce's turn to be Maasai

Bruce’s turn to be Maasai

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Robin-chat, White-browed

Robin-chat, White-browed

After we finished, the principal had us into his office to do his bit for getting us to gift money to the school, but we demurred by suggesting he send a list of needed books to Philip who would forward it to us and then we would work on providing them to the school.

After we left, we came back to the camp, where we took the afternoon off, meeting again for dinner. The big adventure in this interval was the decision of a large baboon to visit Gretchen’s tent-cabin. He made a lot of noise, and when she came out to investigate, he was on her roof. She went back in to grab her camera, and when she reappeared, he had gone over to the side closest to our tent-cabin, and Gwen had come out to see what the commotion was all about. He saw Gwen, and ran back over to Gretchen’s side. He quickly decided that wouldn’t do, and disappeared up one of the many trees right above our tent-cabins. There was a smaller monkey in the trees as well, just to increase the fun. Unfortunately, no pictures were taken, so we have to rely on Gretchen’s and Gwen’s descriptions.

20151001-DSC_4495One other event worth recording is the latest adventure with Frederica and Nameless. They are the eland females who are domesticated enough to be allowed to inhabit the main areas of the camp. Before dinner, the three of us (Gretchen, Gwen and I) were sitting in the bar area, when the two eland walked by the registration desk and headed toward the patio just outside the barroom walls. Standing with her back to them was a young Japanese lady, who was almost rammed by Frederica. When she turned around to see who bumped into her, she screamed loudly and threw up her hands. The eland were remarkably calm about the whole thing, but the woman got flustered a bit. Gwen was closest to see, and tells me we should have a shot of the Japanese lady’s face when she realized she was being bumped by an animal that was just about her size!

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Fabulous Trip to Africa, 22 Sep to 4 Oct 2015, Post 8 – Lake Victoria to Masai Mara

Another travel day, sigh. We met again at 6:30 for breakfast, and then again at 7:00 at the truck to drive to the airport. When we got to the truck, we found that Bruce and Dee had lost their passports and money. Bruce was just coming to the truck to check his backpack, with very little hope of finding anything. But, sure enough, they were there, right in front!  Such a relief for all of us.

On the road there was lots to see.

The road serves many purposes

The road serves many purposes

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Farmland

Brick houses arising alongside the straw and grass structures

Brick houses arising alongside the straw and grass structures

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A local school

So off we went for first the Tanzania – Kenya border, and then the airport. The border was not really a problem, we visited first the Tanzanian agents in one building, and then crossed the border and visited the Kenyan agents in their building. Once we did that, we got back into the truck, and headed for the airplane. 20150930-DSC_3546 20150930-DSC_3558We got off the main road about an hour later, and drove a little way on a secondary dirt road, and pulled under a tree where a woman and her two daughters had set up a souvenir stand. This was the airport. About 20 minutes later, sure enough, a single engine plane drops down out of the sky and meets the runway (which was perpendicular to us), runs to where the tarmac stops, turns around and makes a turn towards us. After saying goodby to Everest, who had unloaded our bags, and hello to the pilot and copilot, we stood around and waited. Everything got on board, but there were three more passengers to meet us. At least an hour later, the first one arrived, and perhaps another half an hour elapsed before the other two got there. We were told that there was a big political rally in town, and our three compatriots had been slowed down for having to make their way through the crowds. By the time they arrived, two more planes had arrived (a twin-engine plane from Kenya Air, and another Safariair single engine job. 20150930-DSC_3589 20150930-DSC_3591 20150930-DSC_3600

Approaching the cliff that marks the edge of the Masai Mara

Approaching the cliff that marks the edge of the Masai Mara

With all aboard, we took off. We flew for about 20 minutes to the first of two Masai Mara airports. About 15 minutes into our flight, we flew over the edge (literally!) where the plain we were on dropped down to the Masai Mara plain, about 1000 feet down.  The cliff seemed to carry on in both directions forever.  It felt like the whole of the Masai Mara had been scooped out flat with a giant bulldozer.

Approaching the cliff that marks the edge of the Masai Mara

Approaching the cliff that marks the edge of the Masai Mara

20150930-DSC_3624 20150930-DSC_3628The vegetation immediately went from relative green to almost completely brown, except along the winding waterways.

The plane landed at the first airport, unloaded two of our extra passengers, and then we were on our way again, Up over the next ridge, about 5 minutes flying time, and we set down at the second of the two airports, our destination (almost). Our new driver greeted us, and we set off on another 30 minute drive to the Fig Tree Lodge. We arrived at about 2:00 and immediately had lunch, which was very nicely done. We were all ready for it! Now I’m sitting here on the porch of our tent-cabin, while the domesticated eland is munching at the greenery around.

Gretchen petting the hotel's pet eland

Gretchen petting the hotel’s pet eland

She is certainly calm enough. 20150930-DSC_3665Gretchen got pictures, and then got right up and petted her. Bruce and Dee came out to see her, but now I am left to watch and wonder about her. Just the other side of the path she is on is the bank of the river that runs through the camp. It is down about 10 feet from the level we are on, but it does have water in it, despite the obviously dry conditions all around.

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Two cubs playing while mom eats

This afternoon, we went on our first drive through the Masai Mara. 20150930-DSC_3720 20150930-DSC_3742 We were very lucky, seeing a mother Cheetah and two young cubs finishing off a kill (Thompson’s gazelle, we think.)

They were near a tree, and the youngsters were splitting their time between eating and playing with each other. They were clearly full of food, as their approach to the kill was fairly nonchalant. We spent a long time there watching. 20150930-DSC_3801 20150930-DSC_3807 20150930-DSC_3837Finally the mother got up and wandered about 25 feet away from the kill and lay down. The cubs joined her, and they licked each other’s faces necks and fronts. Philip says this is common procedure to get the blood off of each other. The youngsters didn’t stay with mother all the time though, they wandered back to the tree, playing with each other. A van pulled a bit too close, so one of the cubs came to challenge the interloper. The van didn’t move, and eventually the cub lost interest. It was a fun watch! In driving around, we also saw another leopard (our fifth),

Vulture, White-backed

Vulture, White-backed

Vulture, Lappet-faced

Vulture, Lappet-faced

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Hornbill, Ground

Hornbill, Ground

20150930-DSC_3945and quite a few birds. We saw several vultures of various kinds, especially after we left the cheetah kill. A hyena was asleep near the road as well. We saw a hippo pod in a pond, where they were bunched up together.

20150930-DSC_3904The most fun sight, however, was a giraffe getting a drink from a creek.  Giraffes have to get into an awkward position to drink, and it is at this point that they are the most vulnerable to attack.  As a result, they are very wary as they drink.  This I already knew.  What I didn’t know was that they come up quickly with their mouths open, spraying water as they rise.

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We came back and had a nice dinner, got to our tents, and had a good night’s sleep.

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